TREKKING IN AND AROUND SAPA
Having been to Vietnam a number of times over the past decade, it was finally time to visit the fast-expanding mountain town of Sapa. This was one ticked off from my ‘bucket list’ for 2020.
Getting to Sapa
There’s 2 ways to get to Sapa from Hanoi. For some, the best way is via the overnight train. This journey takes around 9 hours to Lao Cai. Tickets ideally need to be booked in advance and it’s advisable to take a cabin with a bunk bed. From Lao Cai, it takes around 45 minutes by road to reach the town of Sapa. Alternatively, you can travel approximately 5 hours by car, bus or minivan. I took the overnight train to Sapa, which was okay but relatively bumpy and noisy. You will have to share your cabin with other people, so it really is the luck of the draw who you sleep with!
The town of Sapa
Located 200 miles north west of Hanoi, Sapa it situated in the Lao Cai Province, close to the Chinese border (3 km). Famed for the Hoang Lien Son mountains, which includes Fan Si Pan, the country’s highest peak, this once sleepy rural town is developing at a scary pace that could be detrimental in the long-term. Unfortunately, there now appears to be large scale construction everywhere, with lots of ugly sizable hotels rising like mushrooms. It has to be said, that the charm of Sapa is eroding, as the town modernises to attract and cater for more tourists.
Why go to Sapa?
Without a doubt, trekking is the main activity in Sapa. Visitors from all over the world are attracted by the highland tribes, rice terraces, village life and breath-taking scenery. While it is possible to go hiking around Sapa on your own, it’s safer to have the assistance of a local guide, to ensure you get the best from your visit. Make sure you have good walking shoes, as the terrain is not for the feint hearted or for those with walking difficulties. My trekking group consisted of tourists from Austria, UK, France, Colombia and New Zealand (and as many hill tribe people escorting us in hope of trying to sell something!). I would consider myself fairly used to hill climbing but my group moved at such speed that I often found myself jogging to keep up! Why the need to move so quickly… with such amazing views and local life to take in?
When to visit?
March – May: Perfect weather. Warm and dry for trekking. June – Mid September: Rainy and crowded with Vietnamese tourists. Late September – February: Cool dry weather. Perfect for photos and trekking.
Where to stay?
I stayed at the recently opened 5* Silk Path Grand Resort & Spa. One of Sapa’s newest and finest resorts, set on a hill overlooking the Hoang Lien Son Mountain and the main town. The resort provides a fine blend of local culture and French colonial design, with 152 rooms & suites. Sapa certainly offers many accommodation choices from homestays, guest houses and hotels. International branded hotels are not here yet BUT it won’t be long!
Is over tourism threatening Sapa?
The answer is YES! The Sapa authorities need to regulate the commercialisation of the region. The rapid development of tourism has brought not only benefits but also a lot of negative impact on local community. Although tourism has the ability to bring in a needed economy, it also has the ability to create a dependence and strip places of what originally made them worth visiting
Would I go back?
The answer is YES! Despite my concern for the well-being of Sapa town, there are some amazing places to see and visit. The towering green mountains shrouded in mist and fog make for a breath-taking setting. Locals are friendly, wear brightly coloured clothing and try hard to make a living. Eating and drinking are great value for money and it’s easy to get a 3-course meal for USD$6.
Jonathan from Select Representation travelled with Tour East who offer packages to Vietnam and 17 other countries within the APAC region.
